Relax - Autumn splendour, Winter sonata

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WITH about 700 peaks, South Korea is truly a land of mountains and valleys. The third highest peak is Seoraksan or Mt Seorak. For as long as memory holds, tourists far and wide have been converging on the Seoraksan National Park near Sokcho city, located in the northeastern part of Gangwon District. The Daechongbong Peak on Mt Seorak touches the sky at 1,708m (5,604ft). To say that it’s breathtakingly beautiful is an understatement. Autumn has been designated as the best time to visit Seoraksan because this is when the trees turn into red and gold, with shimmering flashes of silver emanating from the reflection of the sun on dewdrops resting on leaves. The winding river and the misty mountains provide a stupendous backdrop of what awaits eager eyes at the top.

It is raining when we get there but, there is no reason to grumble just because the sky deigns to baptise us with the gentlest raindrops from heaven. And then, paradise opens her arms and welcomes us into her abode.

Radiantly alluring and exquisite in all its rainbow hues, the trees carpeting the mountain sides displays their magnificence. The entire mountain is like a Zen garden, lovely beyond one’s wildest imagination. The temperature must have been around 14°-15° Centigrade. Since it is drizzling slightly, the atmosphere brings clarity to the mind like ice water on one’s face in the morning.

Mt Seorak truly lives up to its reputation as advertised in tourism brochures and pamphlets. It is said that Seoraksan National Park, especially the mountain, is most beautiful in autumn. We become living testimonies to its stunning beauty. Heaven On Earth Fatigue seems to fade away like the mist touched by the rays of the morning sun. Who has time to feel tired when there’s so much to absorb and feel? All the five senses go on a hyper-drive. Despite the less-than-perfect weather conditions, groups of visitors, foreign and local, stand on slippery slopes and demand that their pictures be taken. Some of the more courageous souls lean dangerously close to the edge for that special effect. With the layers of mist decorating the colourful maple trees on the rocky surfaces, the whole mountain becomes a heaven on earth. Hours become minutes on Seoraksan. The only two mountains higher than Mt Seorak are the Hallasan volcano on Jeju island and Mt Jirisan in the south of the country. Words cannot do justice to the splendour that is Mt Seorak.

Changdok palace in South Korea

Over in Asia, we have some of the most magnificent peaks in the world but the top of Mt Seorak is entirely in a league of its own in autumn. One is almost envious of a land that enjoys the four seasons. The enchantment of fall in a special environment like Seoraksan will linger in one’s mind long after the season has passed from autumn to winter and winter to summer. Zen At Its Peak For Buddhist devotees, they will surely appreciate the charm of the Sinheungsa Buddhist Temple located in the national park. The rays of the rising sun ascending over the rocky mountain can only be described as a fleeting kundalini experience. Zen Buddhists may describe the visual experience as satori or spontaneous spiritual enlightenment. For lesser mortals like the rest of us, it was skipping a heartbeat or two but a moment in heaven nevertheless. Kamsahamida! Local hikers, in batches, make a brisk walk down the slopes. They have been there hours before anyone does, probably in the wee hours of dawn.

As we reluctantly make our way down the gentle paths to the exit point, we are greeted by middle-aged hikers who are fascinated by visitors with uncommon faces. One of them, an elderly gentleman, bravely walks over and asks: “Where are you people from? China?” When we reply “Malaysia”, he flashes a big smile, and responds with “thanks for the support”. Koreans are as well mannered as they are enthusiastic about living a healthy lifestyle. Nice people are everywhere. All we have to do is smile and strangers will open their hearts.

In spring, wild flowers bloom on Mt Seorak, while in winter, sparkling white snow blankets the mountain. But autumn is as good a time as any to be at Seoraksan. With a backward glance at what seems to be Shangri-La from a distance, all of us could only exclaim in one word “Kamsahamida” (thank you in Korean). Perhaps we will meet again one day.

Winter Sonata Surely a lifelong dream for most Korean drama fans is the chance to stroll along the wooded pathways that were the highlight of that famous 2002 Korean drama series, titled Winter Sonata.

That’s Namiseom, the very ground that was once trodden upon by the young couple, Jun Sang (Bae Yong Joon) and Yu Jin (Choi Ji Woo).

Namiseom or just plain Nami island is not actually an island. It was formed when the waters of a completed dam rushed into the area many years ago. Today, it is a six-kilometre round, crescent-shaped island floating majestically on the Cheongpyeong Lake, located in Chuncheon, 63km from the Han River.

Flat, Beautiful Land There are no mountains on the island. Its only permanent inhabitants are birds, ducks, rabbits, deer, ostriches and squirrels. What makes it outstanding among the info-packed brochure pages of tourist attractions is the beauty of its garden landscape.

The rows of tress in Nami Island, South Korea, which is part of the backfround in popular Korean Drama, 'Winter Sonata'.

Tall cedar trees line the walkways made popular by the evergreen songs of Winter Sonata and kept fresh and alive by the memories of two young lovers who would fulfil their undying love after many obstacles. The air is refreshingly cool and the gentle sounds of rustling branches conjure magical moments that are forever imprinted on the tourist’s mind. Aided by the symphony of background music made by small creatures, insects, rushing water and swaying branches, the entire island is transformed into a fairytale realm. It is at once warm and reassuring and it gently eases the stresses of modern living and leaves them on its nearby shores. The waters of Cheongpyeong Lake that surround the island are serene and soothing for much hurried tourists. There’s a quiet satisfaction as one savours almost selfishly the placid ambience that embraces the surroundings.

For those who dislike long distance walking, there are bicycles built for one or two for rental. Four-wheeled vehicles are also available for hire at nominal rates for gangs of four.

If you happen to encounter an ostrich or two walking nonchalantly towards you, pay them no mind. They have more right to be on the island than you. The little critters like rabbits and squirrels are now used to sounds of human feet stomping on their grounds. Mother Nature provides total protection for all her furry and feathered children in this domain.

Namiseom Hall Of Fame Naturally, acres and acres of the place are adorned with relics and even statues of what made this place famous. Pictures of Bae Yong Joon and Choi Ji Woo are strategically placed for those special photographic moments. Lovers, young and old, will find the entire area quite bewitching. It has an aura that’s unique. The mood it conjures rejuvenates the ebbing spirit and the scent provided by nature revitalises the heart.

There’s even a Winter Sonata Lane where a building has been constructed to re-awaken those half-forgotten emotions in the hearts of fans.The walls are covered with thousands of pictures from the drama, enough to draw, at the very least, a tear from the corner of your eye.

Namiseom was named after a young General Nami who battled the rebels during Emperor Sejong’s reign. Nami died at the age of 27 but his name lives on as long as Nami island draws the hundreds of thousands of visitors every year. The thousands of very tall, beautiful trees that generally make up the island were planted in 1965 by one concerned citizen, Pyong-do Minn. Forty-four years on, Pyong’s legacy continues to be appreciated by all who are privileged to grace the shores of Namiseom.

Autumn on Namiseom is truly an unforgettable experience. The memories drift gracefully back and forth long after one has left its hallowed grounds. Winter is surely very special on Nami island but that’s left for another time and opportunity. How To Get There Mount Seorak: To reach the Seoraksan National Park, it’s normally a two-hour drive, depending on the departure point from the central hub in Sokcho city. By the time, you reach the footsteps of Mt Seorak, your legs will have gone to sleep on the tour bus. However, fatigue soon gives way to exhilaration when the mountain air rushes down the slopes and embraces you like a long-lost friend.

To get to the holy grail on Seoraksan, visitors have to board the cable car or gondola lift to reach the upper station. It is only about 10 minutes of lovely views of the valley below. From the upper station, it is short hike up chiseled steps to the rocky passage leading to the peak.

Getting to Namiseom:

From Seoul, take a train to Gapyeong Station before taking a taxi or a Truncheon-bound bus to the ferry wharf at Gapyeong. The 10-minute journey to Nami island is made possible by a ferry that has an upper deck where human eyes can glance over two shores and at the beautiful landscape beyond the waters. Lining the starboard and stern of the ferry are the flags of many nations. These are testament to the numerous visitors from many different lands who have paid homage to Namiseom. Visitors to Nami island feel the compulsion to wander along the decks to better appreciate the 360° views.

Autumn splendour, Winter sonata

By Philip Lim, New Straits Times | Wed, Feb 3 2010

The writer catches his breath at the magnificent sight of South Korea's third highest peak and dreamy land of the famed Winter Sonata island.