Relax - Enjoy Takarazuka, theatre and all

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TAKARAZUKA, JAPAN - In Takarazuka lies a small theatre that is the beating heart of the small Japanese city.

There, in February, I got teary-eyed as the lights dimmed and the curtains began to rise in the Takarazuka Grand Theatre.

Looking around, I realised that most of the other 2,500 other women in the audience were feeling the same, for we were, in a moment, going to be watching the perfect man on stage.

The strange thing is that this “man” is, in fact, played by a woman.

Mention “Japan” and “theatre” in the same sentence, and Kabuki will likely come to mind.

But here in Takarazuka, there is a theatre phenomenon that can almost be called Kabuki in reverse.

The Takarazuka Grand Theatre, located in the Hyogo province about 40 minutes by train from Osaka, is perhaps Japan’s best-kept theatrical secret.

Instead of a kimono-clad, male-only cast that defines Kabuki, the Takarazuka Revue’s star attraction is its all-female cast.

The actresses, trained by the revue’s own music school, specialise in playing either male or female roles on stage.

FOR MANGA FANS: Fall in love with the Osamu Tezuka Museum, better known as the home of Astro Boy.

Divided into five troupes, Flower, Moon, Snow, Star and Cosmos, each troupe is led by a main couple, called the top stars, who play the leading male and female characters.

They may be women, but the actresses in the revue are skilled in their craft.

They manage to come across convincingly as romantic, loving and tender as they play the beautifully handsome heroes – and very good- looking villains – in musicals like Phantom, Me And My Girl and Zorro.

It’s their dedication to their craft that takes one’s breath away.

That, and the grandeur of the theatre experience.

The second half of a three-hour performance usually consists of a revue, a display of song and dance in the most amazing costumes and sets that never seem to have enough glitter.

In February, I arrived in Takarazuka to catch the Snow Troupe performance of Dawn At Solferino/Carnevale.

As a committed fan for the better half of a decade, this trip to Japan was especially important to me, for my favourite actress, Ayabuki Mao-san, who takes the second leading male role in Snow Troupe, was retiring after a 16-year career.

Goodbyes in Takarazuka are a huge affair, with plenty of tearful farewells that reflect the passion of the revue’s largely female fanbase.

Many a fan was first introduced to the revue when their mothers or grandmothers took them to performances.

The trip was special, too, as I had my mother and aunt in tow.

Like my fellow fans, the love for Takarazuka runs in the family.

For me, it was I who introduced my mum and aunt to the art seven years ago.

They have remained faithful fans ever since, and often go with me on trips.

MUM AND I: The writer (above left) and her mum on their annual Takarazuka Grand Theatre outing.

In between performances, the multitude of cafes and the best ramen restaurants I’ve ever been to serve as nice gathering places to catch up and bond with my fellow fans – some of them Singaporeans.

Singaporean Valerie Wang, who went on a trip to Takarazuka in December last year, said: “It is hard to describe why you like Takarazuka. The performances just strike you as such a surprisingly powerful force.”

You don’t need to understand Japanese to watch a Takarazuka show, for the story plays itself out so well that all you need to do is sit there and enjoy the performance.

But Takarazuka has more than just theatre to offer.

Manga fans will fall in love with the Osamu Tezuka Museum, better known as the home of Astro Boy. And it’s just down the road from the Grand Theatre.

A hot-spring resort in ancient times, Takarazuka is also well known for its hot-spring hotels and spas, which are popular with the locals.

Many businesses in the city revolve around the famous revue, so you will find Takarazuka unusually quiet on Wednesdays, when there are no performances.

Should you happen to drop by then, visit the theatre and its nearby buildings anyway.

The architecture, which is European-inspired, pays homage to the revue’s most popular franchise of musicals, adopted from the now-legendary Rose Of Versailles manga series.

A large park just across the road from the theatre boasts about half a dozen restaurants offering plenty of good eats.

There is also a dog run.

Stroll along the streets and you will see an unusually large number of dance and ballet studios where aspiring actresses train before attempting the revue’s annual entrance exams to get into its affiliated Takarazuka Music School.

Also located in the area is one of Japan’s oldest temples, the Nakayama-dera temple, established 1,400 years ago.

Takarazuka may sound like a quaint, suburban town, but do stop by to experience the excitement and fiery passion that are at the heart of this city.

HOW TO GET THERE

To get to Takarazuka, first fly from Singapore to Osaka.

A check on www.zuji.com.sg for June travel showed flights starting at $673.30.

From the Osaka airport, take the Hankyu Takarazuka railway line to Takarazuka Station.

A one-way trip costs 270 yen (S$4.20).

Visit http://rail.hankyu.co.jp/en/

MUST-VISIT SITES

Takarazuka Grand Theatre (Takarazuka Daigekijou) 1-1-57 Sakaemachi, Takarazuka-city, Hyogo 665-8558, Japan

This is where the magical Revues happen.

To get there from the Osaka Umeda Station, take the Hankyu Takarazuka line to the Hankyu Takarazuka Station.

The theatre is a three-minute walk just down the street.

Prices for tickets are 3,500 yen (B seats), 5,500 yen (A seats), 8,000 yen (S seats) and 11,000 yen (SS seats), available at the door on most days.

Performances are held once or twice a day, and opening hours vary with performance times.

Closed on Wednesdays.

Check http://kageki.hankyu.co.jp/ english/index.html for the latest show schedules and synopses.

Osamu Tezuka Museum 7-65, Mukogawa-cho, Takarazuka, Japan

This museum, opened in 1994, pays homage to manga legend Osamu Tezuka, the man behind Astro Boy.

Open from 9.30am to 5pm, tickets cost 500 yen (adults), 300 yen (students), 100 yen (children).

Takarazuka Garden Fields 1-1-57 Sakaemachi, Takarazuka City, Hyogo, 665-8558, Japan

Here, you’ll find British-style gardens and a dog run, as well as numerous pet shops, garden shops and cafes.

Open all day, but operating hours for restaurants and other establishments vary, and they are usually closed on Wednesdays.

Hotel Wakamizu 9-25 Yumoto-cho, Takarazuka-shi, Hyogo, 665-0003, Japan

Not sure where to stay?

This hotel is a five-minute walk across the Mukoawa River from the Hankyu Takarazuka Station.

It’s also one of the best hot-spring hotels in the city.

Prices start from 12,600 yen per night.

Visit http://www.hwakamizu. com/english/index.html

The writer is a webknowled- gist and editor of AsiaOne’s digital website, DigitalOne.com.sg

For more my paper stories click here.

Enjoy Takarazuka, theatre and all

By Jasmine Osada Mariko, my paper | Mon, May 24 2010

Here in Takarazuka, there is a theatre phenomenon that can almost be called Kabuki in reverse.

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