Relax - Michelin chef unveils restaurant at Gardens by the Bay

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Pollen Flower Dome
Gardens by the Bay
18 Marina Gardens Drive, #01-09
www.pollen.com.sg
info@pollen.com.sg

When protege of Gordon Ramsay and ex-Maze chef Jason Atherton opened his first restaurant in London last year, Pollen Street Social fielded 10,000 calls within the first six-and-a-half hours and filled their tables for the next three months.

So saying that the Singapore offshoot - which opens June 29 at Gardens by the Bay - is "highly anticipated" is a bit of an understatement. Named simply Pollen (which fits lyrically into the picturesque flora and fauna of the Flower Dome), the concept is Atherton's third collaboration with hotelier Loh Lik Peng, the other two being restaurant Table No 1 in Shanghai and tapas bar Esquina on Jiak Chuan road, Singapore.

But the modest Michelin starred chef has no expectations for his first "proper" dining concept in Singapore, and prefers not to compare his success in London with Pollen.

"The media circles followed me prior to my opening in London - which I'm very thankful for - but every single person was waiting for my first restaurant after leaving Gordon," explains the chef, who was in town as preparation for opening day revs up. "It was very well publicised: we fell out and etcetera so people wanted to see what I am doing."

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So it's crucial for him that Pollen becomes a brand name that stands on its own; Atherton wishes to move away from celebrity statuses and shift the focus back to food, which ought to speak for itself. "It's not about me - it's not called Jason Atherton's but Pollen," he says. "I get on a plane tomorrow, and it's down to these two guys (executive chef Colin Clague and pastry chef Andres Lara) who's here 24 hours. It's about the team behind Pollen and the food we deliver."

Speaking of the food, Pollen's menu will feature modern European fare with a Mediterranean twist - and with herbs grown within the dome's micro-climate, no less. The renown dessert bar at Pollen Street Social will also make an appearance here, so diners who wish to sample sweets by Lara can do so without paying for a three-course meal.

Foodies who want an overview of Pollen's fare will do well to try Esquina's slow cooked egg with bravas and scallop ceviche, which are Atherton's signature dishes. And as with his usual style, there's a return to "simplicity, with just two or three things on a plate that's spectacular, well-thought out, balanced and value for money," says the chef.

Considering the all-star team he has put together, the fate of Pollen seems to be in good hands.

Clague was previously from Zuma London and Dubai, and Lara has worked the service line at El Bulli in Spain and the much-hyped Noma's in Denmark. They will be joined by yet another of Ramsay's ward - York & Albany's ex-head chef Colin Buchan - as chef de cuisine starting tomorrow. Four to five chefs from Atherton's London restaurant will also be around for the first month to instruct and oversee operations.

They are however finding it difficult to fill the rank and file positions and it's a problem which will persist for the foreseeable future: "It's a complementary thing to Singapore - that the education system is so high it's difficult to fill the lower positions," says Clague.

Other concerns include competition from dining hotspots around town. "There's Wolfgang Puck, Guy Savoy - they are all right above my head," says Atherton, gesturing to the imposing structure of Marina Bay Sands across the waters, "then you go to Sentosa and there's Joel Robuchon and Susur Lee just to name a few ... it's like I'm just another name chef in nevermind-where nirvana, who knows, who cares?"

And will people travel so far out for a good meal? Atherton isn't too concerned: "It's such a destination site - it's so beautiful to sit inside the Gardens with its own little micro-climate - that it's not just unique to Singapore but to the world," he says.

Agrees Pollen's executive chef Colin Clague: "When you first step into the Flower Dome it's like stepping into Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory!"

What's more, the micro-climate means dining in Pollen feels like an alfresco meal in the temperate climate of summer in Europe, with the view of the bay and the Singapore skyline to boot. Diners can pick between the sunny "patio" and bar on the second level or the shadier first level.

"It's the smell as well - you walk out of this restaurant and you smell the lavendar and rosemary!" adds Clague.

Given Atherton's previous projects with hotelier Mr Loh, he is no stranger to the quirks of Asian diners. "People said we'd never get Singaporeans to queue, to get them to wait for their meals, or to stand up and drink beer, but at Esquina we did all three of those things," he says.

But what excites him most about Singapore's F&B scene is how "street food is as accepted as much as fine dining - one night you'll have hawker food, and another you'll be sitting at restaurant Andre - so we've got diners that dine across the whole spectrum," he enthuses.

Despite the challenges, Pollen looks all set to make Atherton's presence felt here, so mark the date on your calendar and put the restaurant's phone number on your speed dial if you want a table.

thtan@sph.com.sg

This article was first published in The Business Times.

Michelin chef unveils restaurant at Gardens by the Bay

By Tan Teck Heng, The Business Times | Thu, Jun 21 2012

Michelin starred chef Jason Atherton unveils his widely anticipated venture Pollen in just under two weeks.

Keywords

Pollen Flower Dome
Gardens by the Bay
18 Marina Gardens Drive, #01-09
www.pollen.com.sg
info@pollen.com.sg

But the modest Michelin starred chef has no expectations for his first "proper" dining concept in Singapore, and prefers not to compare his success in London with Pollen.

Read also:
Ten F&B options at Gardens by the Bay

Food and flora at Gardens by the Bay